Evaluation of Beeswax Influence on Physical Properties of Lipstick using instrumental and sensory Methods
2020-01-07 09:02:31
Copyright of article (©)Sinova Development Co.,Ltd
?Purpose: Evaluation of Beeswax Influence on Physical Properties of Lipstick Using Instrumental and Sensory Methods.
The purpose of this article is to optimize the ratio of wax and oil in lipstick formulations using a central combination design method, to judge based on the physical and sensory characteristics of lipsticks, and to use DPPH radical scavenging spectrophotometry for antioxidant activity.
?Location: Sinova in-house laboratory
?Result: According to the results of the instrument and sensory analysis, the optimized lipstick formula ratio is: 57.67% of mixed oil; 19.58% of beeswax; 22.75% of cocoa butter; of which the mixed oil is sea buckthorn oil and grape seed oil (the ratio of the two is 13.96: 6.18, at this time with Highest antioxidant activity). The analysis showed that the content of the melting point of the wax lipstick had a great role, and mixed oil content of only little effect. Beeswax has a greater effect while the ratio of the oil content of the penetration depth and the hardness of lipstick. With the increase in beeswax lip balm increases the melting point. Then increasing the depth of penetration of the mixed oil increases with increasing wax content is reduced.
?Observation Details
Lipstick is a cosmetic with oil wax system. There are many kinds of waxes, such as beeswax, palm wax, satin wax, candelilla wax, etc. According to the characteristics of lipstick, the content of various wax components in the lipstick formula should be adjusted accordingly. " Carnauba wax has become the most influential factor on the melting point of lipsticks because of its thermal stability ". In the previous article we knew this. Each wax has its own characteristics. This time we take a look at beeswax used in lipsticks.
Beeswax is a fatty substance secreted by 4 pairs of wax glands in the abdomen of working-age workers in the colony. Pure beeswax is white. Generally, beeswax is usually light yellow, medium yellow, or dark brown. This is due to the presence of fat-soluble carotenoids or other pigments in pollen and propolis. Its main ingredients are: acids, free fatty acids, free fatty alcohols and carbohydrates. In addition, there are carotenoids, vitamin A, and aromatic substances. At normal temperature, beeswax is solid and has a beeswax odor similar to honey and bee pollen. The specific gravity at 20 ° C is 0.954 ~ 0.964. Melting point varies with the source and processing and extraction methods, and is generally between 62 and 67 ° C. At 300 ° C, beeswax becomes smoke, which decomposes into volatile substances such as carbon dioxide and acetic acid. (From 360 encyclopedia)
?Taking a lipstick formula as an example, we can see that the beeswax content is 6%.
Phase A: Castor oil 41.70; / isopropyl lanate 8.00; / glycerol monooleate 6.00; / isopropyl myristate 4.50; / Acetylated lanolin 4.00; / beeswax 6.00;/microcrystalline waxwax 3.00; / carnauba wax 2.00;
Phase B: methyl paraben 0.25; tert-butyl hydroxyanisole 0.05;
Phase C: Basic Fuchsin 18.00; Basic Red 2.50; Basic Violet 3.50; Pearlescent Pigment 0.50
Phase D: Amount of flavor.
Sinova specifically analyzed the formula of the lipstick in a section, and found that there were no significant differences in all the test attributes of the lipstick, the scorability assessment score range was 6.7-8.6, and the appearance and color scores were 8.1-9.4. There are obvious differences when analyzing the sensory properties of lipsticks. Stability varies from 1.3 to 7.6 with a satisfactory value of -5. The softest lipstick contains 11.89% beeswax, which is also the lowest content of beeswax in all lipstick formulas. The hardest lipstick has a score of -7.4-7.4 and a beeswax content of 30%. It can be considered dependent on the hardness of beeswax lip balm content. The range of oiliness is 4.7-8.7, and the intermediate oiliness is measured at 5.3, which is suitable. At this time, the oil content is in the middle range. Ductility highest value is 9.6, then the lipstick contains low levels of beeswax and the highest content of cocoa butter. Ductility minimum value of 6.6, with moderate levels of beeswax, mixed oil and cocoa butter. After use, the most residual lipstick comprising a high content of cocoa butter, beeswax and low levels. Similar moisture test results, the best moisture resistance, and low wax content oil containing high levels of moisture in the worst lipstick contain cocoa butter. Containing the highest absorbance lipstick high content of oil (70% and 76.21%), and the minimum amount of cocoa butter (1.29% and 0%). When the cocoa butter content of up to 43.71%, with the lowest absorption lipstick. Lipstick can be found absorb depends on the cocoa butter content.
The lip m.p. optimized formulation was obtained 59.1 ℃, predictive value 60 ℃.
The analysis showed that the content of the melting point of the wax lipstick had a great role, and mixed oil content of only little effect. Beeswax has a greater effect while the ratio of the oil content of the penetration depth and the hardness of lipstick. With the increase in beeswax lip balm increases the melting point. Then increasing the depth of penetration of the mixed oil increases with increasing wax content is reduced.
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